From the Rhine to the Rhine? I know an exciting "shortcut"! Instead of taking the popular long-distance cycle route along the big river, I want to cycle across all the hills that lie between Nierstein and Bingen on my Rheinhessen crossing. I won't be conquering any mountain passes like on the Transalp, but this little adventure promises wind, climbing and enjoyment just the same. I will be on the road for two days with luggage and an overnight stay and want to give you a detailed report, which is why there is part 1 and part 2 of my tour report. You can find the tour links and the description of the other stage at the end of the article.
Bikepacking to Rheinhessen?!
Nothing fills me with more anticipation than strapping the bikepacking bags to my bike. I've had a long week at work, so I'm all the more looking forward to my time out in the countryside. What awaits me over the next few days? 90 kilometers, four hikes and plenty of eye-catching views. Bikepacking means going on longer bike tours with light luggage that is attached directly to the bike - instead of bulky panniers. This makes gravel sections less jarring and you feel at least twice as fast. Even if everyone defines the experience (and the length of the route) differently: The focus is on discovering, feeling nature and freedom.
On the second day of my gravel bike tour, I want to head up high. Through the Rhine-Hessian Switzerland and then following the Nahe valley northwards, a few surprises await. After a quick breakfast, the Wöllstein market offers a great opportunity to stock up on snacks and strike up a conversation with the people of Rheinhessen. With strawberries and freshly baked cookies in my luggage, I follow the Appelbach, where the path, once again on a former railroad line, runs as if through a green tunnel.
On the Hiwwel, which was an island
Just a few minutes later, I reach the Mount of Olives, a geological eye-catcher. It's hard to imagine that it was once a volcanic rock island jutting out of the primordial sea! The following ascent to the Castle ruins of Neu-Bamberg is no walk in the park, but the view from the old walls with the pretty church is not to be missed.
After a few kilometers of dream gravel, I discover a farm store, like a walk-in wonder bag: At the Goldkauter Hof, I am amazed by the variety of regional products from bread to beer, carrots to milk, for self-service 24/7.
Picnic in front of an imposing rocky backdrop
Refreshed with delicious yogurt and an absolute dream descent into the Alsenztal valley, we now head up to the Ebernburg. The forest path climbs up the slope, sometimes steeply, sometimes more gently in serpentines, until the view opens up from the ridge. The Rote Wand on the left, the imposing Rheingrafenstein on the right and the castle in the middle - what a panorama! The sunny spot is perfect for a picnic.
From the brine spa Bad Münster am Stein (or between the stones), it's easy rolling through the salty lift of the Saline Valley. Take a deep breath!
Leisurely to the Rhine near Bingen
After a stop at the graduation towers in Bad Kreuznach it's high time for a coffee break. With a cold brew between the historic bridge houses, I recharge my batteries for the last few kilometers along the banks of the Nahe to Bingen on the Rhine. The Rhine finally comes into view, today even with special effects: with the high water level that the rainy May brings this year, you can actually get up close and personal with the mighty river.
Conclusion
Full of impressions and with a full memory card, eventful cycling days come to an end. What is Hiwwelpacking in Rheinhessen like now? Relaxed, varied, surprising and very sunny. This tour is therefore highly recommended for the transition period, in spring or fall. I experienced wonderful hosts and varied routes between the Rhine, vines and stones. From freshly asphalted cycle paths to crisp gravel climbs, there was everything a gravel heart could desire. If you want to discover unknown corners while bikepacking, Rheinhessen with its hidden little highlights and expansive views is the place for you. A micro-adventure with a pleasure factor!
If you've now got the urge to try out Hiwwelpacking: Here we have some helpful packing tips and a packing list created for you. You can find the route to follow on komoot and Outdooractive.
Click here for part 1: The Great Hiwwel Crossing (Part 1) - Vines, Ruins and Cycle Rush, Bikepacking in Rheinhessen.
