The Amiche cycle path now leads from Bodenheim via Nierstein and Nackenheim where railroad lines once lay. The 33 km long circular tour runs through pretty wine villages, sun-drenched vineyards and is not only interesting for train fans. We also follow in the footsteps of the Rhine-Hessian writer Carl Zuckmayer on this cycle tour on the occasion of the Zuckmayer theme year.
My service tip: Cycling without your own bike: how it works in Laubenheim
Although the official starting point of the route is in Bodenheim, we start in nearby Laubenheim. There's a very practical reason for this: we don't have our own e-bikes. Good that there is a Mainz Mobility bike station and bikes can be rented easily with the meinRad app. And it's as quick as this: register, select the bike in the app, unlock it and cycle off. We opt for two pedelecs, which are very affordable at 19 euros per person for the whole day. If you are traveling by train or car and have your bikes with you, it is best to start the bike tour at Bodenheim train station. There are plenty of parking spaces available.
Climb aboard please! Here comes railroad nostalgia
From Bodenheim, we follow the cycle path signs with the small steam locomotive past extensive vineyards and farmland. With a bit of luck, you can look over the vintners' shoulders as they prune the vines.
In Gau-Bischofsheim, we come across the first relic of the former Amiche railroad line, the station building. Like so many station buildings in Rheinhessen, it is unmistakably recognizable by its red and yellow clinker brick façade, which we will encounter several more times along the way. Where passengers once waited for their train, there is now a play and toddler group.
Just a few meters further on, old railroad tracks are a reminder of the former railroad line, which were only uncovered in 2017.
But what is the story behind the name Amiche? No one can say exactly where the name comes from. Some people believe that it is a French remnant. The name Amiche is said to derive from the French word ami, meaning friend. An Annemarie could also have served as the namesake. In any case, it is clear that the development of the railroad line brought significant advantages. Did the famous Rhine-Hessian writer Carl Zuckmayer also travel on the Amiche? We strongly suspect so, as the railroad line was opened in 1896, the year he was born. It ran from Bodenheim to Selzen; the route of the Rdweg is largely identical.
A little later, between Harxheim and Selzen, we notice that we are on a former railroad embankment because the path runs mostly straight ahead and we ride a few meters above the fields. To the left and right, the path is lined with slowly sprouting trees and bushes, giving us the feeling that we are riding through a green tunnel. Incidentally, there is a lot going on on this glorious spring day. Whether walkers, joggers or cyclists: the people of Rheinhessen are taking advantage of the great weather for sporting activities.
Time for a break at Jordan's Untermühle
We arrive about a third of the way along the route Jordan's Untermühle in Köngernheim. In addition to the wellness hotel, the beautifully renovated half-timbered farmhouse also houses a wine bar, a café and a bar. Perfect for your first break. Conveniently, there is also a bike service station with various tools and a battery charging station in case the tires need a little more air or a screw needs tightening. After we have parked the e-bikes and locked them in the app, we enjoy a refreshing drink in the cozy fireplace room. We watch the pheasants cavorting around the property. It's a great place to stay. We'd love to come back and spend a whole day at the in-house spa next time. But now we want to move on, because we still have a few more kilometers on the railroad tracks ahead of us.
Back on the Amiche cycle path, we come across an interesting information board a little later. It tells us that there used to be another branch line from Undenheim to Nierstein, the so-called "Valentinche". Somehow the people of Rheinhessen have a way with their pet names. A memorial stone just before Nierstein commemorates the railroad line. The train service began in 1900 and was discontinued 60 years later. The train even transported a prominent passenger in 1957, namely the first Chancellor of the Federal Republic of Germany, Konrad Adenauer.
Between vines, the Rhine and trains
After cycling past fields for a few kilometers, we finally reach the Rhine in Nierstein. There's a lot going on here: lots of cyclists and walkers are out and about on the banks of the Rhine. We stop briefly to watch the hustle and bustle. An information board tells us that the section between Nierstein and Nackenheim that lies ahead of us is part of the Rhine Cycle Route Rheinhessen and the Rhine Terraces Route. We'll save these two cycle paths for another time.
We continue to the market square, where the restaurants are already full. We are also quite hungry by now. That's why we decide to stop off at the Haxthäuser Hof. We find a sunny spot in the courtyard and review the route so far over a glass of wine and delicious regional dishes.
Well fortified, we get back on the saddle. On the further course, the vineyards stretch out to our left, including the Vineyard Red slope. This is known for its unique terroir, where Riesling vines thrive particularly well, giving the wine a very special taste. To our right is the electrified railroad line between Worms and Mainz, on which several trains pass us. Steam trains like those of Zuckmayer's time have long since disappeared here. For me, this is definitely the most beautiful part of the cycle path.
Nackenheim - home of the Zuckmayers
Another highlight awaits us in Nackenheim, for which we have to leave the cycle path. Instead, we head towards the town center. Nackenheim is the birthplace of Carl Zuckmayer. The writer has been immortalized in the form of a bust on a beautiful blue half-timbered house, which now houses the Nackenheim registry office, among other things. Coincidentally, a guided tour of the town is taking place at the time, so we join the company for a while and listen to the fascinating stories about Zuckmayer. On the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the premiere of his play The happy vineyard many events will take place in 2025 around Rheinhessen's most famous writer. These include further dates for a guided tour of Nackenheim on 19.07. and 20.09., both starting at 4 pm, and a new edition of the "Happy Vineyard" in front of Nackenheim Town Hall on 4 dates in June. All events can be found in the Brochure "Everything Carl?" or on the Event page for the anniversary year at a glance.
Just a few meters away, at the foot of the Catholic church of St. Gereon, is the small but fine local museum. The museum is open on Sundays from 1 pm to 5 pm and admission is free. It impresses with its lovingly furnished interior, all of which is looked after by volunteers. The permanent exhibition provides fascinating insights into the everyday life of the Zuckmayer family The Zuckmayers - A family from Rheinhessen. The history of the Zuckmayers is traced from their father's capsule factory to the persecution of the National Socialists and their return to Germany. The focus is of course on Carl Zuckmayer's most famous work The happy vineyard. The Carl Zuckmayer Medal is still awarded today to people who have made a special contribution to the German language. The recipients are immortalized on the Wall of Fame in the exhibition. Anyone interested in Zuckmayer's life should read the Museum be sure to pay a visit.
Conclusion: A tour for connoisseurs and history lovers
The Amiche cycle path is not only exciting for train enthusiasts. The 33 km route has a lot to offer: Well-maintained paths, some of which follow former railroad lines, with other historical highlights such as the local museum in Nackenheim. There are also plenty of places to stop for refreshments along the route. And of course, a glass of wine from the Roter Hang is a must. Whether on your own organic bike or an electrically assisted bike - this entertaining tour is the perfect combination of exercise, culture and enjoyment.
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All info about Tour planning or for cycling in Rheinhessen can be found on our Cycling pages in the "Active&Nature" travel section.
