My Tour on the Rhine Cycle Route begins in Bingen. Where I usually enjoy the enchanting scenery of the Niederwald Monument and the Ehrenfeld castle ruins on the Rheingau side with a glass of wine, today I get on my bike. With sunscreen, enough water and a few pretzels in my luggage, my tour starts. The destination is Mainz.
Fascination "Inselrhein
From Bingen to Mainz - almost daily I drive this distance in 25 minutes by car via the A60. As a former Mainz resident, I'm actually familiar with the area and yet I'm amazed at this little idyll that takes me just past the Bingen culture bank promenade expected. Meter-high poplars line the floodplain meadows along the banks of the Rhine and, together with the islands of Rüdesheimer Aue and Mariannenaue, form the nature reserves of the "Inselrheins". I slow down a bit, listen to the chirping of the birds and feel a bit ashamed that I let one of Europe's most biodiverse areas right on my doorstep go so unnoticed until now.
I take a break in a small sandy bay just before Ingelheim. Stand-up paddlers, a kite surfer and lots of pleasure boats are cavorting on the Rhine. The bad image that Germany's second-largest river had for decades due to its low water quality has long been a thing of the past. I myself dip my feet into the cool water and let my gaze wander once again over this magnificent floodplain landscape before I continue pedaling.
Time for a little history
Ingelheim, about halfway along the stage, is worth a longer stay, as is Bingen. Culture and history, famous personalities and the love of wine, the two neighboring towns have more in common than just the banks of the Rhine. Just as the famous nun Hildegard von Bingen shaped the history of the town, so did Emperor Charlemagne in Ingelheim. His Imperial Palace, the restored remains today picturesquely embedded in the district of Nieder-Ingelheim, is a "must see" of the red wine town. But a visit to the castle church, which rises majestically above the vineyards, is also worthwhile. If you want to explore Ingelheim's sights, you'll have to plan for a somewhat longer stay, because the banks of the Rhine are about five kilometers from the city center. It's a recommendable side trip, but one for which you should allow a few hours. That's why I decide to follow the Rhine Cycle Path directly.
"Meenz" - into the city life
I leave the Ingelheimer Mole behind me and follow the Rhine cycle path in the direction of Mainz. Passing Heidenfahrt with its quaint beer garden, I ride on well-maintained roads toward the capital of Rhineland-Palatinate. Just a few kilometers before Mainz, the atmosphere changes. I leave the quiet idyll and enter the bustling city life. In "Meenz", people love life. Whether with a "Schoppe" in front of a small wine tavern or relaxed on a picnic blanket in the winter harbor, here you can enjoy yourself.
At Hugo-Victor-Ufer, I get off my bike and am happy to have reached my Rhine Cycle Route stage destination. I know and love Mainz, so now I push my bike across the market square, enjoy the view of the magnificent Dom, whose visit is highly recommended, and I'm looking forward to a relaxing end to the day in the old town of Mainz. Tomorrow a new bike day awaits me!
Mainz - Worms: Stage two begins
Well rested, I get back on my saddle the next morning. Day two of the Rhine Hessian Rhine Cycle Route leads me today to the Nibelungen City Worms. At around 60 kilometers, the second stage is considerably longer, but the views of historic wine villages, famous vineyards, old towpaths and quiet banks of the Rhine - as promised by my cycling guide - make me pedal enthusiastically.
Nackenheim and Nierstein are the first places to welcome me on my tour with their Rhine promenades. Picturesque little old town alleys, charming half-timbered houses and lovingly laid-out winegrowers' farms give the two wine villages a very special charm. Wine plays a major role throughout Rheinhessen, and vineyards are omnipresent, but I don't ride directly through them for the first time on the Rhine Cycle Route until shortly after Mainz.
A place to fall in love
The vineyard that stretches to my right is one of the most important in the world: the Red slope in Nierstein. Red soil, green vineyards, the view across the Rhine to the Odenwald - it's a place to fall in love with. If I didn't still have a large part of my route ahead of me, I would already be taking a break, strolling through the Nierstein marketplace with its baroque noble houses and enjoying the moment with a cup of coffee.... But I still have a lot to do!
The Rhine Cycle Path behind Oppenheim with its imposing St. Catherine's Church continues along the Rhine - sometimes close to its overgrown banks with small sandy bays, sometimes a little further away on easily navigable dike paths. The vineyards have now given way to large fields of grain and corn. Once again, a whole new scenic attraction reveals itself to me on this varied bike tour.
From the river to the lake
A next highlight awaits me at Oak. The lake landscape around the Altrheinsee is considered one of the largest contiguous reed areas in southwest Germany and is home to numerous rare bird and amphibian species. A longer stay here with a look through binoculars is definitely worthwhile. I decide to spend my break on the bathing beach of the Altrheinsee, because jumping into the water is now the perfect refreshment.
I've recharged my batteries for the last few kilometers. Passing Hamm, Ibersheim and Rheindürkheim, I finally reach the Rhine promenade in Worms with the Hagendenkmal and the Nibelungenbrücke on a relaxed route. Unlike Mainz, I know Worms little and so I am curious what awaits me at my destination. But a visit to the imperial cathedral, a stroll through the old town, a visit to the Jewish cemetery and the Nibelungen Museum I postpone until tomorrow, because after two days of cycling I'm looking forward to a relaxing evening with a glass of Rhine-Hessian wine. My very personal tip: Kolb's beer garden directly on the banks of the Rhine. My bike tour can't end any better!
Service tips
When you're out and about on your bike, you might need an air pump or a tool if a screw is loose. The batteries of the e-bike also need to be charged from time to time. That's what the bike service stations in Rheinhessen are for! But also some hosts have declared themselves a charging station and accept batteries for charging. You can find all information about bike services here.
One Response
Beautiful can only recommend. I myself was born in Ingelheim am Rhein . Wonderful area . The Rhine is super nice to look at also the places and cities. Thank you!