This time, the focus is on wine enjoyment, since Bodenheim is considered the Rhine-Hessian Mecca for Straußwirtschaften and Gutsschänken. What could be better than drinking wine directly from the vintner and tasting typical Rhine-Hessian dishes that go perfectly with it?
With conviviality and a view: The "Potsdamer Hof
The RheinTerrassenWeg leads us shortly before Bodenheim through the Plattenhohl. Above the statue of Alban lies the rustic Gutsschänke Potsdamer Hof with a large sun terrace, a fantastic view and a long history. It has existed for over 125 years and is therefore a real Bodenheim institution.
We learn that Silke Acker-Gauer's great-grandfather did his military service in Potsdam, Brandenburg, and was "the Potsdamer" ever since. People went "to the Potsdamer" in the family-run restaurant, the "Potsdamer Hof" was born. When the Gauer family moved from the town center to Plattenhohl in 1999, they took this name with them, because "you don't change what's been good for so long."
We drink a glass of wine and order a typical Rheinhessen snack with Spundekäs. Just the thing after a hike! The beautiful view from the terrace on the vines of the winery does not remain uncommented at our table. By the way, the relaxed chatting with the table neighbors is characteristic for Rheinhessen and contributes to the warm atmosphere of the Gutsschänken and the Straußwirtschaften.
Under chestnut trees and vaulted cellars: the "Battenheimer Hof".
The current stage of our RheinTerrassenWeg hike ends practically directly in front of the Battenheimer Hof which we enter through an imposing entrance gate. Here, in the center of Bodenheim, there is a cozy country hotel with a tavern where we will spend the night.
In the evening we take a seat under the large chestnut trees on the terrace. Roses, lavender and olive trees grow around us, a small fountain gurgles and we look at the Nacke family home built in 1853 in the style of a Tuscan villa. A great ambience!
The philosophy of the chef, who has been virtually part of the family for 25 years, is seasonally changing Rhine-Hessian specialties with a modern touch. Isabel Nacke tells us that her favorite dishes are the "Meckerziege," a goat cheese au gratin with honey on salad, and Grandma's hand cheese tartare. We try both and can confirm that they taste fantastic.
Due to the beautiful weather, all guests are sitting on the terrace. We are curious and still take a look at the actual Gutsschänke in the winding cellar vault. Where vegetables and other foodstuffs were once stored, you can now dine in a rustic atmosphere. A fireplace, wicker lamps, fairy lights and old family photos provide coziness and authenticity.
"Zur guten Stube" at the Kirch Winery
The next day we want to visit a Straußwirtschaft. One recommends us "Zur guten Stube" at the Kirch Winery and we are happy to be able to take a seat in a beautiful garden here as well. Numerous oleanders bloom and exude Mediterranean charm.
Winemaker Stephan Kirch looks after the family-run winery, while his sister Jaqueline Eckert is responsible for the gastronomic delights. She tells us how the Gutsschänken differ from the Straußwirtschaften. While the former are licensed establishments with a wide range of food, the latter are subject to clear rules.
Straußwirtschaften are allowed to open for a maximum of four months a year, divided into two time blocks. In addition, only "simple dishes" may be served with the winery's own wine, i.e. "smaller dishes that go with the wine and have a regional or seasonal connection. Dishes like bratwurst wrapped in bacon, which we order on Jaqueline Eckert's recommendation.
From the Straußwirtschaft you can go seamlessly into the newly designed, modern vinotheque of the winery. If you like, you can take home a bottle or two of wine that you have particularly enjoyed.
In front of the winery we have a beautiful view of the Catholic Church of St. Alban. Right next to it is the main house of the Kirch winery. When the Straußwirtschaft up here closes at the end of September, the family opens the Gutsschänke Kapellenhof in town. Bodenheim is truly a year-round mecca for wine enjoyment!
Tip: An overview of all Rhine-Hessian Straußwirtschaften and Gutsschänken, not only those in Bodenheim, can be found at with the help of our restaurant search. To be on the safe side, please always check directly with the wineries for current opening hours.
