The Cultural path Petersberg is an easy hike, ideal for an outing for two, with the family, with a whole group and, of course, with a dog. Some local winemakers offer wine tasting for guests on the top of the mountain, at the table of wine. The theme trail has been redesigned in recent years, just like the nine predicate hiking trails and the RheinTerrassenWeg
Along the foot
The wind blows across the barley fields and makes the ears of corn nod toward the roadside. It smells like summer. We have just crossed the small Selz River and are walking out of Gau-Odernheim, past allotment gardens, always following the small sign "Kulturweg Petersberg". At an old fruit meadow, we read something about the history of Gau-Odernheim on the first information board and enjoy the lush red of the corn poppy. A whole meadow of red dots. We have already discovered the small peak of the Petersberg. The Petersberg with its 246 meters is not a rugged rock face, not a majestic backdrop that takes your breath away. It is rather the highest hill in a gentle sea of hills. I think of the quote I once heard and love so much "Rheinhessen is not a proud rose; but a field flower, a paradisiacal one", nod in agreement and walk on. The path leads us first along the foot of the Petersberg, we circle it like a gallant circles his beloved.
Nature is allowed to breathe
The first vines flank our path. On the ridge of Wörrstadt, the wind turbines leisurely make their rounds. We let our gaze wander, discover fallow areas and are immediately enlightened by the next information board: The nature reserve "Im Briehl/Schafwiese" has been renaturalized. The once straightened course of the Selz River can once again meander naturally here. This visibly pleases flora and fauna. In fact, during the hike we repeatedly encounter small areas full of flowers, thistles and herbs. The vineyards have not been strictly pulled to the edge of the path. Nature is allowed to breathe. Along the path sit hedge roses, elder bushes and hawthorn. There a checkerboard butterfly flies, here a bumblebee climbs into the calyx of the delphinium. It hums and buzzes and hums. A vintner on a tractor drives by. Cyclists rest on the bench, under the shade of a tree. In the orchards, T-bars wait for birds of prey to visit.
At the source
We turn before Bechtolsheim turn right and follow the path, although the village deserves a visit. On the beautiful long street waddle the cast-iron geese at the fountain. Numerous wineries invite you to taste and buy wine. At Cultural asset small concerts and readings are offered. The Simultaneous church - a church used by both Christian denominations - is beautiful and stands out in the village. We see it, learn something about water on the information board and already get in the mood for the first small rest "Am Brünnelchen". Blue monkshood is our companion. Cool spring water gurgles out of a small quarry stone wall. Generations of winegrowers have already refreshed themselves here and I also take a good sip of water. The spring water comes from a reservoir below the nearby vineyard and is fed by percolating rainwater. Supposedly, the Romans already used this spring for their Roman villas on the Selz River.
On the mountain
Now it goes up the mountain for the first time, not on a direct route, but again in gentle sweeps. You sweat, but only because of the sun. Vines everywhere. Most are as if drawn with a ruler, but some have a bend in them. Clearly, here is slippery terrain. Surely an annoyance to the vintner, to the hiker it looks like an untamed strand in an otherwise very accurate braid of hair. On an information board we learn something about the "donation of a vineyard under the kingship of Pippin, under the abbot Gundeland". An old world opens up to us and the small mountain peak comes closer and closer. The path leads one last small round through a narrow path with a view to the Kloppberg. A bench invites to a far view towards the Rhine and the Odenwald. I drink a sip of wine and step with wine glass on the ground of the former church on the Petersberg. Highlight of the hike in the truest sense of the word. The medieval church was built in the 10th century in the style of a three-nave basilica. It was destroyed during the 30-year war, an archaeologist excavated its remains from 1947. A stonemason recreated parts of the crypt on the spot in accordance with the monument. A silver thistle pays homage to the place with its beauty.
The panorama of today's Rheinhessen is at least as impressive. At the foot of the small mountain, one would not have expected that. But now it becomes clear that the Petersberg is justifiably one of the highest elevations in the growing region. Over the Alzeyer Land - with vineyards, fields, small villages and towns - the view goes far in the direction of the Donnersberg in the Palatinate, with its 686 meters almost three times as high as the Petersberg. Also clearly visible is the mountain range of the Hessian Taunus with the "Großer Feldberg" at 878 meters. Not far from the cosmopolitan city of Frankfurt including its European hub, Frankfurt Airport. Thick clouds pass by and give the panorama a certain drama, a play of light and shadow. There is no cross on the summit to lean against. Instead, there is a small stone pedestal on which every local has probably sat at some time or another, and which is also often used as a place to put wine glasses and wine bottles. A young winegrower has just poured Silvaner for a group of tourists. They move on and I sit down on the pedestal and enjoy the view. Meanwhile, my partner reads some of the numerous information boards here, about "Geology at Petersberg" or "Some like it hot - plants and animals on Petersberg".
Now it goes straight down the mountain. This direction of the circular route is definitely recommended. This way you can continue to enjoy the panorama on the way down instead of having it at your back on the way up. Hikers will find here, still at the height of the mountain, two wooden resting couches for a nap. Larger groups can take a seat at the table of wine. We finish our wine glasses, read something about the "Ganerbschaftliche Bechtolsheim" on the information board, pass a beautiful vineyard cottage and walk towards the "Herrgottspfad". This is the most romantic, wildest section of the path. Bushes and trees crowd the path, which is so narrow that it is exclusively for hikers. The Lord God's Path takes its name from the processions that for centuries led, and still lead, to the top of the mountain on church feast days. Wild chamomile blooms along the path. We discover a white tower snail. Sure enough, lizards scurry into the bushes and hide from us.
Within a few minutes we are back at village level. A vineyard hut almost identical to the one on the hill, made of light sandstone and with a round-arched roof, huddles against a loess wall. Vines surround the small shelter and a blue-yellow tile sits boldly on its forehead - the scallop shell, the sign of the pilgrims. The Rhine-Hessian Way of St. James leads from Bingen to Worms. From the top of the Petersberg, one could virtually overlook the entire route, which takes several days. At the little house there is an information board about the "pre- and early history Gau-Odernheim's", in addition again a table of the wine for thirsty groups. We do not sit down this time, but walk past the wayside cross, catch a glimpse of the information board "Herrgottspfad" and set course for the Gau-Odernheimer church tower. It also marks the small marketplace with a fountain. We treat ourselves to an ice cream there. Hungry people will find numerous restaurants in the village and of course again good winemakers for wine tasting and purchase from the farm.
Route info:
7 km long circular hike, about 2 hours running time. Start: Parking lot at the Petersberghalle in Gau-Odernheim. A total of 20 information boards, several benches and rest loungers and 2 long tables of wine. Do not forget sunscreen and water!
Photos: Horst Klavinski
